2006 R6 ?'s

[Scotty Ryan]

Nice...Scotty, are you running stock MC and Lines? I am sure you have installed SS Lines, but wondering if you are running a Upgrade Brembo MC?

It appears the stock MC on the 06 R6 is the same as my R1, and I did not care for it on my R1 and replaced it with a 19x18 Brembo, also on the new R6...Braking was much better on the R1 with the new MC...

What tires were you running? And what about your Fork Tubes, did you have them flush with the Triple? I know Stock, mine were raised 3mm from the factory...

Mike

I have the stock master , with Galfer braided lines front and rear, Vesrah Super RJL's....The brakes didn't quite have the inital bite that I was used to with the Suzuki, but the Yamaha was easier to modulate. I don't know weather it is the master cylinder or the metal that the rotors are made out of....I know that the Zuk rotors are more porous then the Yami - but not sure if thats the issue....
I can say this, I like the Yami brakes better because on the Zuk, under hard braking I used to occasionally lock the front wheel if I were to grabby on the lever - the Yamaha doesn't do this.

Tires - I was using the Michelin PR-5 rear and  a PR-C front...The rear worked as expected, lasted both days and toward the end of the second day I was having fun sliding the bike around a bit.We had a PR-3 that we were going to throw on to see if the extra stick of the softer tire required a different set up in the suspension dept, but we decided to save the tire for another day and just burn up the 5.

In the front, the new PR-C was golden. Toward the end of last season we were given a special compound front tire to try, it was supposed to take care of the issues that many of us had with the PR fronts.Long story short - the new tire works as good or better then the special tire I ran last season. It has a taller sidewall then the PR's and a different shape to it, easy to turn in, easy to roll from side to side and excellent grip at any lean angle. I never once got that tire to do anything unexpected of funny - it did everything I asked of it and you can brake hard all the way to the apex of the turn if needed... This front tire is one thing that I am totally stoked about, especially after the way last season's front tire worked....Or didn't work for that matter

 
  

[Scotty Ryan]

Mike, do you measure the front fork tubes from the top of the fork cap or from the top of the fork tube just below the cap? We go from the top of the fork tube. We ran the test this past weekend with the top of the fork tubes flush with the triple - The bike seemed stable yet nimble, so we left it where it was.. The only ride height adjustment we had to make was to the rear by lowering it one shim size - so that we had only one shim between the clevis and the upper shock mount...

[extrakt0r]

Scotty,

I noticed the exact same thing with the Vesrah's on my R1 last year...They are a great pad, but do not have the inital bite that you are refering to...But offer smooth and consistant braking...

I found that the Carbone Lorraine's do have that inital bite that I like and also offer the same smooth and consistant braking that the vesrah's also have...

The big issue that I ran into with the CL's is that they 100% suck in the Rain (due to the need for them to be very hot to work well) and had to switch back to my stockers for better braking...

You may want to try the CL's on your R6, as I can attest to the same performance with the Vesrah's on my R1 Rotors (which are the same material as the R6) and the CL's really have the inital bite that I like...

I have the stock master , with Galfer braided lines front and rear, Vesrah Super RJL's....The brakes didn't quite have the inital bite that I was used to with the Suzuki, but the Yamaha was easier to modulate. I don't know weather it is the master cylinder or the metal that the rotors are made out of....I know that the Zuk rotors are more porous then the Yami - but not sure if thats the issue....
I can say this, I like the Yami brakes better because on the Zuk, under hard braking I used to occasionally lock the front wheel if I were to grabby on the lever - the Yamaha doesn't do this.

Tires - I was using the Michelin PR-5 rear and  a PR-C front...The rear worked as expected, lasted both days and toward the end of the second day I was having fun sliding the bike around a bit.We had a PR-3 that we were going to throw on to see if the extra stick of the softer tire required a different set up in the suspension dept, but we decided to save the tire for another day and just burn up the 5.

In the front, the new PR-C was golden. Toward the end of last season we were given a special compound front tire to try, it was supposed to take care of the issues that many of us had with the PR fronts.Long story short - the new tire works as good or better then the special tire I ran last season. It has a taller sidewall then the PR's and a different shape to it, easy to turn in, easy to roll from side to side and excellent grip at any lean angle. I never once got that tire to do anything unexpected of funny - it did everything I asked of it and you can brake hard all the way to the apex of the turn if needed... This front tire is one thing that I am totally stoked about, especially after the way last season's front tire worked....Or didn't work for that matter

 
  

[extrakt0r]

I measure the same way...

I know I read on the WERA board that when using the PRC Front, that they recommend raising the forks 4-5mm in the trees due to the higher profile...'

I am excited the throw my leg over it...My 1st day on it will he Heartland Park on the 10th of April...New Layout and Pavement...I am excited...

My Sharkskinz finally shipped on Monday, so I should be good to go soon...

Will you be at Road America next month?

Mike, do you measure the front fork tubes from the top of the fork cap or from the top of the fork tube just below the cap? We go from the top of the fork tube. We ran the test this past weekend with the top of the fork tubes flush with the triple - The bike seemed stable yet nimble, so we left it where it was.. The only ride height adjustment we had to make was to the rear by lowering it one shim size - so that we had only one shim between the clevis and the upper shock mount...

[Scotty Ryan]

Instead of lowering the front, we raised the rear 5mm. That's when we ended up finding out that the rear was jacked up to high, and brought it down the one shim size - I think it's 2.5m or 2mm can't remember for sure.....With the two shims (5mm) it wanted to turn too quick and run up the inside of turns without holding a line. After removing the one shim it was good to go... April 10th - Are you refering to Super Dave's school? If so, I will be instructing with Dave this season. So I will be at HTP that day - we can meet in person..Maybe compare bikes....Also -  I will be at Road America for the CCS/ASRA races, I was going to go down to Barber for the AMA race - mainly because I don't like riding in the cold weather/snow... I will have more of a chance at finishing in the money @ the ASRA races then @ the AMA Supersport or FX races, So that was the main reason for the decision....It also gives me more setup info for the AMA round later this year - I am bad at making those sort of decisions - so I have Dave to thank for helping come to the choice of Road A....

[extrakt0r]

Instead of lowering the front, we raised the rear 5mm. That's when we ended up finding out that the rear was jacked up to high, and brought it down the one shim size - I think it's 2.5m or 2mm can't remember for sure.....With the two shims (5mm) it wanted to turn too quick and run up the inside of turns without holding a line. After removing the one shim it was good to go... April 10th - Are you refering to Super Dave's school? If so, I will be instructing with Dave this season. So I will be at HTP that day - we can meet in person..Maybe compare bikes....Also -  I will be at Road America for the CCS/ASRA races, I was going to go down to Barber for the AMA race - mainly because I don't like riding in the cold weather/snow... I will have more of a chance at finishing in the money @ the ASRA races then @ the AMA Supersport or FX races, So that was the main reason for the decision....It also gives me more setup info for the AMA round later this year - I am bad at making those sort of decisions - so I have Dave to thank for helping come to the choice of Road A....

Yes, I will be at the Track Day April 10th...But I didn't realize that it was a SD Class Day...

That is cool...Yeah man, I look forward to meeting you..My bike is currently getting worked on, so I'll be good to go hopefully soon...

Hit me up at michaelsimone@kc.rr.com we can chat offline about some things I have learned...
 ;D

[extrakt0r]

I got my Sharkskinz for the R6 today...I don't see what the big deal is with the rear numbers...

There is plenty of room to have 6" numbers on the Rear and still be legal...

I test fitted my numbers on there today and they fit 100% fine...

I placed the Tail next to my R1 Tail and it is comparable in size....

BTW...These plastics are awesome...Flawless...

[Super Dave]

I have an R6 too, now.

Here's a question...

On the stock body work...there's those goofy lower tubes...do they go on the race body work or what?

Mike, I have schools at every HPT track operated track day.  Only one is a Visionsports' Racer University though.  

[extrakt0r]

I have an R6 too, now.

Here's a question...

On the stock body work...there's those goofy lower tubes...do they go on the race body work or what?
 

What goofy lower tubes?  ???

[Super Dave]

There are plastic tubes that move air from kind of the lower area of the bike on either side toward the inside area of the motor.  They attach themselves to the stock body work via two screws.  

Were hard for me to miss as they weren't on the prior R6.  

[extrakt0r]

There are plastic tubes that move air from kind of the lower area of the bike on either side toward the inside area of the motor.  They attach themselves to the stock body work via two screws.  

Were hard for me to miss as they weren't on the prior R6.  

 ??? ??? ???

Dude, I seriously have no idea what you are talking about...I don't remember seeing those during my tear down at all...And I don't see them in my parts pile...

Pics? I am lost...Scotty, know what he is taking about?  :-/

[Scotty Ryan]

Yeah, The tubes are bolted to the stock side fairings. They draw fresh air from in front of the radiator and direct it toward the rear of the cylinder...The race plastic I have does have a spot to put the tubes but doesn't have any provisions for mounting..You would have to either rivit or glue the tubes to the bodywork...We didn't use them when we went to Barber - but brought them along incase there was some sort of overheating issues..We didn't have any issues come up so we never installed them...Maybe on a hot day something could come up - but i'm not sure....   Mike in reguards to your tail section - they must of used a different shape then then the plastic I have because my tail section is shaped exactley like the stock one,  and i'm not so sure that I can get my numbers to fit(I haven't tried yet but I will as soon as I get some paint on there)...