Radiator for 1st Gen SV superbike

[grasshopper]

Should I run the stock radiator or find something aftermarket for my 1st Gen SV superbike?

I've been told to run a F2 radiator but its too wide for my new shark skinz body work. I'm looking for alternatives here or for advice of whether or not I should run the stock radiator.

3mm overbore, 2nd gen intake cams, 39mm flat slides, lightened, balanced, polished crank from falicon with corrillo rods, lighter flywheel. That's about it for major motor mods.

It makes good power and runs pretty damn good I'm just a little worried about it over heating.

Thanks for any advice in advance

Nick

[benprobst]

The big rad is a good idea but unnecesary. Ed runs the F2 rad, we tried it and it worked well, but was bulky in my opinion with the extra hose "t" required. Its easy to trim the SS to fit the wide rad. We also took a monster ZX7 superbike radiator and cut and chopped it to fit, it was a sweet piece, so sweet I sold the sum bitch and went back to the stocker. My full blown SV superbike had no problems running down south all year. You do have to be careful pulling off the track and idling in the pits, its jumps up in temp real fast when it sits still. But on track no problem at all.

[dylanfan53]

I had no problem with the stock radiator.  I kept a close eye on the gauge but didn't have a problem.  You have a temp gauge on it, right?

[tzracer]

Try stock radiator, gut the thermostat, plug the bypass circuit.

Another alternative I used on an RC51. I purchased an auxiliary radiator from (don't laugh) JC Whitney (the smallest one they had) and connected it to the by pass circuit. It lowered temps by more than 20F.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ItemBrowse/c-10114/s-10101/p-100000184818/mediaCode-ZX/appId-100000184818/Pr-p_CATENTRY_ID:100000184818

[grasshopper]

Brian, I'm not laughing. That's an excellent Idea.

[GSXR RACER MIKE]

Did any of you guys ever try Evans NPG coolant? Being that it's legal with CCS it's a relatively minimal one time investment for more effective cooling, hell it doesn't even begin to boil till 370*. I have nothing but good experience with it on my GSXR's (without fans on them), they've never boiled over even once after a hot weather race. And the icing on the cake is you don't have to worry about it freezing either! 

[HAWK]

While it is true that Evans doesn't begin to boil till 370 head gaskets fail at much lower temps. Once the coolant reaches 370 the oil is pretty much useless as a lubricant etc, etc. The issue in this thread is will a stock radiator keep a motor with almost 25% more power than stock cool. I'm interested in this as well as I'm currently putting together a SB SV motor and wonder if the stock rad will do the trick.

I kind of like Brian's idea if I can get it to fit.

[Greg_Williams]

Nick,  Take a look at the first gen R6 radiators.  They're an easy fit but a much thicker core than the SV rads.  When I was running a 84hp SV back in 2000 and 2001 I had problems overheating in Texas in the summer races until I ran the R6 radiator.

[tzracer]

I kind of like Brian's idea if I can get it to fit.

Paul I made a cardboard box with the dimensions of the extra radiator and used it to see where/if the radiator would fit

[grasshopper]

Where do you buy this Evans coolant?

[HAWK]

 Order page at Evans I think Lithium might carry it too.


Look around at the FAQ and instructions, you cannot have ANY water in the system with the Evans or you lose all the high temp benefits.

[GSXR RACER MIKE]

While it is true that Evans doesn't begin to boil till 370 head gaskets fail at much lower temps. Once the coolant reaches 370 the oil is pretty much useless as a lubricant etc, etc. The issue in this thread is will a stock radiator keep a motor with almost 25% more power than stock cool. I'm interested in this as well as I'm currently putting together a SB SV motor and wonder if the stock rad will do the trick.

Once the temperature of a surface goes past the boiling point of whatever coolant your using it creates a boiling steam layer on that surface, steam is a poor transmitter of temperature as compared to actual liquid. Once that steam layer is created the efficiency of your cooling system to transfer heat from the hottest surfaces inside your engine to the coolant is diminished. The temperature you see on your temp gauge is of the coolant itself, not the hottest surfaces inside the engine which are somewhat insulated from the coolant by the steam layer. The higher the boiling point of your coolant the longer the coolant actually stays in contact with those hottest surfaces so it can transfer that heat more effectively to the coolant and carry that heat away to the radiator. Evans NPG is also a better thermal transmitter (it transfers heat to and from itself better than water),  this means it can more effectively get rid of that heat being carried by the coolant as it goes thru the radiator.

This product is designed for use in Diesel Semi fleets and Dragsters as well, both which create tremendous amounts of heat very quickly when under load, their solution in those cases was to improve the coolant instead of increasing the size of the cooling system. The goal of using a coolant with a 370* boiling point isn't to run the engine hotter, it's to transfer the heat away from the hottest surfaces more effectively so your entire engine doesn't get as hot in the 1st place.

I certainly wasn't trying to send this thread off in another direction, instead I was giving a rather cost effective alternative to physical modification of the cooling system. Knowledge is power, this is another option some may not have thought of. This coolant is indeed more expensive than the water additives, but it's a 'lifetime coolant' that never needs replacement and it works as well as Evans claims.