Box Truck Conversion

[Woofentino Pugrossi]

Also, does anyone know if installing a window in to a box-truck's box body is possible and commonly done, such that I can go somewhere to have it done?

Thanks.

Yes its possible. Its just locating one that will fit between the studs. Most RV/Van windows its just cut a hole for teh window, put the sealing strip on teh flange (or silicone) and install the inner window clamp ring (sandwiches the box sheet metal between teh windows flange and inner ring flange).

[kl3640]

Yes its possible. Its just locating one that will fit between the studs. Most RV/Van windows its just cut a hole for teh window, put the sealing strip on teh flange (or silicone) and install the inner window clamp ring (sandwiches the box sheet metal between teh windows flange and inner ring flange).

Thanks.  What do you think about converting the inside in to a shared space (garage/living quarters), kind of like the Hobbi trailers?

[Woofentino Pugrossi]

Would be great for some tracks. Just take measurments of teh inside, note stud spacing (some are 12"oc then space put to up to 24"oc. Some stay the same oc the length of the box. Depends on who made it), make a detailed drawing of the box (kinda like a house plan), make little paper templates of the appliances/items you want and just move them around until you see what you like.

I'm planning on doing the same, but with a trailer when I get back into racing. I'm gonna make it so the living quarters are sealed off from teh garage. Rather not try to sleep with fuel fumes from teh bike/car/gas cans. I'm probably gonna go a bit more complicated since I'm also planning to have a head, kitchen sink and other more complicated setups (looking at a min of a 36-40' OAL trailer)

[GSXR RACER MIKE]

Something else to consider with the size and type of box truck is license plates and drivers license requirements. I had looked into some trucks before that would have required a CDL (which isn't a big deal for me to get one) but that limits the people who can help drive on longer trips. You also get into having to keep a log book and being restricted as to how many hours any 1 person can drive at a time (and how many hours of rest required before that person can drive again). I realize you might be going for the RV plates, but make sure ahead of time what the driving and cargo restrictions are for that where you live. Some people get away with never being pulled over with RV plates, but all it takes is once by a State Cop having a bad day and violations can get really expensive really quick - worth at least checking.

[benprobst]

At current fuel prices, you will still come out ahead going without spark plugs. Since it sounds like youre looking to retain as much resale value as possible, the diesel will help. Planning for resale also negates the usual extra start up cost of running a diesel (i.e. 3-5 thousand dollars more on the buy in), so the diesel wins again there. When you start looking into maintenance the scale continues to lean torwards the old tech. The diesels are simply better. Its of course arguable, but if market/industry trends hold any truth, diesel should start dropping by summer.

[kl3640]

Mike, thanks for the info on licensing requirements.  Most of these types of trucks that I'm considering fall under the 26k# GVWR w/hyd brakes, so their non-cdl, so thanks for mentioning that requirement.

Ben, I think I agree with you, for a vehicle of this type, that diesel is undoubtedly the way to go, especially because their engineered to be fleet vehicles w/300-400k miles minimum service life before required overhaul.  In fact, when the CAT 3126 is put in to semi's, that config has a 1mm mile mark before overhaul.  I agree with you that they're going to hold their resale, and quite frankly they're the only way that I could get in to a truck like this.  Otherwise, I'd have to buy a cube van or the like to get gas.  The major repair costs are less, but are more likely to be required in the long run.

Woof, thanks for the suggestion on how to proceed with finishing the interior.  A question: what kind of materials would I use to finish the walls and ceiling?  For the floor I'm going to get some kind of synthetic checker-board tile that's gas and oil resistant.  Could I use luan (like in trailers) for the walls and ceiling?  And if so, how are joints between sheets, handled, with a trim piece, or overlap, or something else?

Another question in general for all of you: The particular truck that I'm considering has a 2000# hydraulic tuck-away lift.  The tuck-away is nice because it retracts under the fame, as opposed to flipping up in front of the roll-up door (which isn't necessarily a good thing because if the door is covered that's an extra layer of security).  The problem is that I'm not sure if a hitch could be mounted.

Does anyone know if adding hitches to trucks with tuck-away hydraulic lifts is feasible and done commonly?  If not, then I'm going to have to look in to a flip-up lift or getting rid of the lift altogether and replacing it with a stowable walk-down ramp, like the kind on the U-Hauls.

Thanks.

[Woofentino Pugrossi]

Generally luan is common for walls and ceiling. Usually you butt them together and put a trim strip over the joint. Basically in a sense, you finish it like you would if you finsihed your basement. In vans we usually covered the luan with 1/4" padded headliner material and used decorative screws to hold it up. Where the ceiling luan met the wall luan we used either a welt at the joint or wood trim. If you can, go to a local car dealer that sells new conversion vans and look inside one. They all are pretty much built the same way. May give you ideas. Look inside both a standard height van and a raised roof van.

[tzracer]

Also go look at some RVs, especially toyhaulers. It may answer some of your queastions and give you some ideas.

[kl3640]

Thanks for the luaun info.  I always thought that luaun was plastic, but it's apparently a type of thin plywood, kind of like a low-grade mahogany in 1/8"-1/4" thicknesses.  I'm sure Woof you know a lot about it.

So my next question is regarding isulation.  The "studs" are I think 24" on center but I'm not sure yet until I can get in to the truck an measure it.  Assuming that I just use luaun like regular sheetrock on the walls, and build some kind of frame for the front wall and some kind of light-weight frame for the ceiling (and figure out how to attach it), what would I use for insulation?  The depth might not be as great as interior house walls so I was thinking about using thin sheets of styrofoam.

Any thoughts on how to mount the luaun on the front wall and the ceiling?  I think that the ceiling will have metal cross-members, so perhaps affixing it to that is an option, so long as it won't cause a leak.  Ditto with the front.

[benprobst]

Any thoughts on how to mount the luaun on the front wall and the ceiling?  I think that the ceiling will have metal cross-members, so perhaps affixing it to that is an option, so long as it won't cause a leak.  Ditto with the front.

self-tapping screws. greatest thing since sliced bread. The pull very hard and have no problem sinking in flush even in the hardest of wood, will have no problem sinking into the luan (trust me, I install probably a thousand sheets of luan a year  ) . It all depends on the truck, but if its a true box truck it will most likely have actual roof bows rather than roof posts like a fabricated dry box trailer. Roof bows are semi U shaped with a flat side down then sides rolled up and over, normally about 1-2 inches tall. As long as you use proper length screws you will have no problems with creating leaks. With a load lock or two you can line the roof of a truck by yourself in under and hour, maybe 2 if youre new to it. Just go to home depot and talk anyone about insulation, thats pretty easy to solve. Just rbing him you stud spacing and depths.


Where are you located?

[kl3640]

self-tapping screws. greatest thing since sliced bread. The pull very hard and have no problem sinking in flush even in the hardest of wood, will have no problem sinking into the luan (trust me, I install probably a thousand sheets of luan a year  ) . It all depends on the truck, but if its a true box truck it will most likely have actual roof bows rather than roof posts like a fabricated dry box trailer. Roof bows are semi U shaped with a flat side down then sides rolled up and over, normally about 1-2 inches tall. As long as you use proper length screws you will have no problems with creating leaks. With a load lock or two you can line the roof of a truck by yourself in under and hour, maybe 2 if youre new to it. Just go to home depot and talk anyone about insulation, thats pretty easy to solve. Just rbing him you stud spacing and depths.


Where are you located?

Thank you.  I'm located in South Florida...are your services for hire? :)

[gntbldr]

Holy shit! there's a lot of Great info in this thread!!!!!

Thanks.