tire wamer help

[Fast Cletus]

I have a dilemma.  I have a set of tire warmers that work fine, but are very thick. So thick in fact I have had to permanently pull off my front and rear fenders to accommodate the warmers. 
I would like to get those fenders back on, but at what cost?  New chicken hawks are 300-400+ which would be nice, but I am on a bduget. Haas anyone had experience with these Tyr socks?
JC

[123user]

My ducati is the same way.  The front fender is so close that tire expansion burned a hole through it at Daytona in 2007.  I'm still running my 10 year old pair of TyreSox, they are very thin and if its cold enough outside to need the cozies, I just loop it around the top of the front fender. 

I don't run the rear fender 'cause it weighs over a pound of unsprung weight... so that's not an issue.  You can try slotting the holes in the fender and use a different fastener.  If you buy an aftermarket fender to can request that the holes not be drilled so you can raise it a little.

Just a note:  If you're running inverted forks, you really need fenders to cover the sliders... unless you just happen to like replacing fork seals.  If you're running conventional forks, you've just saved a pound of unsprung weight.

[Ducmarc]

i took piece of aluminum strap( found at a hardware store)half inch or three quarters wide and eighth of an inch thick mark one set of holes off fender drill so bolts will slide throughthen move up a quarter or three eights of an inch up and either drill and tap for bolts  bolt the bracket to the forks and attach the fender to it mine has worked many races including several years at daytona just make sure the pilot hole for the tape is small enough that you get full thread i us on size smaller than tap recommends since its aluminum   marc

[Gino230]

I don't run the rear fender 'cause it weighs over a pound of unsprung weight...

I was wondering how you got that thing so light (discussed in previous posts). I just assumed you did it with the expensive bits.....fuel cell, LW wheels, etc.... My SS legal DS is close to 400 pounds!

[123user]

I was wondering how you got that thing so light (discussed in previous posts). I just assumed you did it with the expensive bits.....fuel cell, LW wheels, etc.... My SS legal DS is close to 400 pounds!

Aside from the marvic wheels, there's no titanium, or special materials on my SS.  A carbon-Kevlar tank would shave another 9 lbs, and titanium bits would reduce another 3lbs.  I am still running the starter because the slipper clutch precludes roll-starting.  I'm even running the std. front rotors which weigh a ton.

The different offset triples and frame gusseting I did actually added weight but were necessary to eliminate death wobble.  I actually "know" there's about 15lbs that can come off for about $2500 more....  I also think there's about 10 more hp left in there with more build/tuning.  The key is to spend your friday and saturday nights sitting on a stool staring at the bike like some crazy japanese mystic... the more staring, the more weight... grasshopper.

[Gino230]

well, I've done some staring at the bike, but instead of the music I was sipping some whiskey. Maybe that's the problem.

I am trying to stay within supersport rules, so that is one issue. Cost is the second. Carbon tank is a bit pricey.

I thought about cutting off the subframe, that is probably worth 5 lbs or so.

Rotors I believe are ss legal, so maybe a lighter set.

Probably alot of little stuff, like gas cap, rearsets, etc.

I would be curious to see your gusseting (if it's not a trade secret, of course) that thing do hath a tendency to wind up like a spring in the faster corners.....

[Ducmarc]

tat bike is heavy the first fifty lbs is in clumps the rest is in ounces my 900 is at 320lbs it was lighter but if you don't watch your weight it will get fat on you .ditch the starter and some light sharkskinz and a few other things i think i can get to 300lbs your problem is it's fuel infested so you can't really get rid of the altanator and all the electronics . half the time i don't run a tach just shift when it runs out of power. my problem s the chassis i want to go to a st2 but this 748 thing takes up all my time and money   where you been planet express keeping you up in the yukon 

[roadracer162]

I will have to start riding the 900 in GT lIghts. Paint it first??

Mark

[Gino230]

I already have the carbon body, LW fairing bracket, and I removed all of the stuff I can't live without. I don't want to get rid of the starter just yet. Will need it if I ever put in a slipper clutch.

Cutting off half the subframe would be good, plust the tank I bet I would save close to 20 Lbs, bring me down  to about 380. Maybe a small battery would do the trick, too. LW rotors have already been suggested. Drill the rear rotors, too. Of course ditching the stock exhaust would probably save some poundage too.....all it takes is $$!

[123user]

I prefer beer to whisky when staring at the bike.

What you really need is a spreadsheet to "decide" which modifications to make.  The rotors aren't a great deal... neither is the composite tank... which is why mine still has neither.  I cut my subframe off all the way to the gusseting, then welded in threaded bungs so I could have a removable aluminum subframe with adjustable seat height (important 'cause I'm 6'2").  The battery and crankcase overflow are located in the subframe.  (You can ask Ben Probst about it... he was complaining about his right nut setting on the positive battery terminal and his left nut on the negative terminal)

I drilled the rear rotor myself, which took forever but was almost free.  The easy way to do this is tank two identical rear rotors and clamp them together so that holes are 1/2-off.  Then you can use one of the rotors as a drill fixture.  A carbide drill helps

My 1000ss weighed 365 wet,  when I was running supersport in 2007.  Any dual exhaust is pretty heavy.  I'm running a 2-into-1 that weighs approx. five pounds.  I actually figured out a way to run the FI without the charging sytem... but you don't want to know.

Just a note on using a small battery with the FI:  The std controller uses an incredible amount of amps to run the bike... thanks to ducati for fitting this bike with 0.5 OHM coils!!   If you use a battery smaller than 10 or 12 amp-hour, you'll really be taxing the charging system.  Some have found this out the hard way... others have been lucky.  In other words... you're rolling the dice.  When it comes to batteries, I'm pretty conservative... when it comes to bearing clearances... well... not so conservative!

[Ducmarc]

i don't know how you run so fast with out a slipper . the main reason i keep my starter is convenience. every time you go to pit out there's some kind of hold up and my bike won't idle.plus someone has to help with the starter cart .if it were me i'd go to carbs and throw away all the wires. and mark if you want to paint the 900 lets cut 3 inches out of the middle to narrow it up for daytona at least its got a shock now and not a spring with 2 rod ends on it.

[roadracer162]

I kinda like the look of the fairing, plus I can hide behind it. To me it kinda looks like the MotoGp fairing.