Chains.......

[skiandclimb]

So, I am running a RX 520 chain, and in the off season, it's on my list of parts to change out.  I did some reading about chains, and found one site (I'll try and find the exact link) that stated the application (IE dirt, street, race etc) is pretty much BS, and one should look at tensile strength above all when buying one.

With this in mind, I have found numerous "dirt/MX" chains in 520 pitch that appear to have higher tensile strength than many "street/race" marketed chains.  Also, the MX chains are loads cheaper than the street/race chains. 

When looking at individual chain maker's web sites, I see alot in terms of proper application..."not to exceed 250cc" etc.  However, many that say not to exceed smaller displacement bikes seem to have some higher tensile strength than some higher displacement machines.

My question is, do you guys/gals run chains marketed as "MX/dirt" on your race bikes? If so, what type (chain) and what application?  $50 vs. $120 would be nice.....

Cheers,

Ski

[backMARKr]

So, I am running a RX 520 chain, and in the off season, it's on my list of parts to change out.  I did some reading about chains, and found one site (I'll try and find the exact link) that stated the application (IE dirt, street, race etc) is pretty much BS, and one should look at tensile strength above all when buying one.

With this in mind, I have found numerous "dirt/MX" chains in 520 pitch that appear to have higher tensile strength than many "street/race" marketed chains.  Also, the MX chains are loads cheaper than the street/race chains. 

When looking at individual chain maker's web sites, I see alot in terms of proper application..."not to exceed 250cc" etc.  However, many that say not to exceed smaller displacement bikes seem to have some higher tensile strength than some higher displacement machines.

My question is, do you guys/gals run chains marketed as "MX/dirt" on your race bikes? If so, what type (chain) and what application?  $50 vs. $120 would be nice.....

Cheers,

Ski

Chris, call shop and discuss this with Kyle.

[skiandclimb]

Will do. thanks Mark.

[123user]

I used to run the DID MX chain on my hawk.  The MX chains are non-oring and require very regular maintenence, which is something not done on "street" chains anymore.  The 125 and 250GP crowd still use the non-oring chains because the friction is significantly lower.  The MX chains also use a clip type link (which is what I use, even on the o-ring chains) but some people have this crazy idea that the clip type is dangerous... whatever!

Unless you plan to remove your chain, soak, and clean after every weekend... plan on getting a O-ring type.

[tzracer]

I have lost several clips off masterlinks. Even with safety wire and silicone.

Rivet masterlinks are one less thing to worry about.

[Noidly1]

I have lost several clips off masterlinks. Even with safety wire and silicone.

Rivet masterlinks are one less thing to worry about.

True, however, it makes it quite difficult to change gearing for different tracks.

[HAWK]

True, however, it makes it quite difficult to change gearing for different tracks.

Not nearly as difficult as finishing the race with no chain.

[Noidly1]

 

[Super Dave]

The 125 and 250GP crowd still use the non-oring chains because the friction is significantly lower.

With time, a non-o-ring chain starts to build up friction.  I've had some savvy dyno operators tell me that those chains loose lubrication quick and then rob power compared to an o-ring chain.  That happens very, very quickly.  Would happen probably by the time one got into their first race event of the weekend.  If you had all the money in the world, sure, you'd use non-oring chains all the time and replace them with great regularity even during the event weekend. 

A non oring chain is narrower since it doesn't have to accomodate the orings.  That can lead to reduced weight, sure. 

Gotta pick and choose what you want to do. 

[tzracer]

I ran an o-ring chain on my 250. I'd say at least half of the 250 riders use o-ring chains.

For my 125, I never found an o-ring chain in a 415 size.

[123user]

It seems like I've spoken with a few people who have lost "many" master links over their lifetime...  I've also spoken with more who have never lost a master link in 30+ years of riding  (on and off pavement).

I'm not saying they're foolproof, but the clips are pretty reliable if installed correctly, So, here's my wax on the clip type... if you're the kind of person that rushes jobs, or is always late, or works on their machine while drinking... please use a rivet type.  (I'm not insinuating that you're a slob if you've lost one, just making a general recommendation)

I do agree with Dave on the wear issue.  Loose is fast, until it gets worn.  However, if you look at the replacement schedule for 250's, you should be replacing your non-oring chain every couple of weekends anyway. right?

I use a clip because I like to use different chains for different gearing so the bike's geometry doesn't change.

[HAWK]

Granted, if clip types were coming off regularly then they wouldn't even be available but when was the last time you saw a rivit type master come off? I got caught out without a new rivit master link once and used the clip type that came with the chain, I was paranoid about and checked it every session and guess what happened after 3 or 4 sessions. That's right, it came off, I caught it before I lost the chain but that was the last time I ever used a clip type.

It takes an extra 5 min to use a rivit type master. Add a rivit master tool and a dremel to your tool box and then never worry about it.